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Showing posts with label San Miguel de Allende. Show all posts
Showing posts with label San Miguel de Allende. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Neal Cassady and the Beats


Last Saturday evening in San Miguel de Allende I attended a celebration of the Beat poets. Neal Cassady, the catalyst who changed the direction of Jack Kerouac's writing -- to the more free flowing, stream of consciousness Beat style -- breathed his last breath here. He'd been to a wedding and probably took some downers that night, where he expired by the railroad tracks.

His son, John Allen Cassady, was named for Cassady's two best friends, Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg. Kerouac's first name was actually Jean, pronounced almost like 'John' -- so why didn't he name him "Jack Allen Cassady" you ask? Well, Neal Cassady said, "If you say Jack Cassady fast, it sounds like Jackass-ady; and no one is going to call my son a jackass!" John Allen Cassady, who is now in his late 50s, returned to grace the local literary group with some funny stories of his father, who died when John Cassady was just 16.

The evening began with a couple of speakers providing a summary of the history of the Beats, and particularly the development of their friendship and writing, and their ventures to Mexico.

"Don't do what I did, 20 years of fast-living and my kids are all screwed up," Neal Cassady had said. But his son, John, a blond-haired man with a beard, bushy eyebrows and a sunny disposition, has nothing but fond and humorous memories of his father. When I asked him about what his father had said about screwing up his kids, John said, 'Well, my dad was very protective. He cared for us very much."

John Cassady went on to talk about the funny things his father did to entertain the kids, and how he never said an unkind thing to them -- or anyone else. On one trip to Mexico he brought back a small wooden pig that had a removable plug for a tail. "Watch this!" Neal said to his kids. He went and got a flyswatter, and swatted a fly, not killing it, but just stunning the fly. Then he pulled the tail-plug from the little toy pig, inserted the dazed fly and replaced the tail. As the fly came to, the pig's legs started to move and soon it was dancing on the table. The kids were delighted! John said, "That was funny, but what's even funnier is, 'Who is the Mexican who thought of this in the first place!?'"

John's mother, Carolyn, was left to be the disciplinarian. You'd think that a kid who smoked mota with his father and accompanied him to the bars while still in elementary school would be all messed up. But John Cassady is a happy man, a shining, jovial light who is and always was, very proud of his parents.

I approached John after dinner with his mother's book, Off the Road: Twenty Years with Cassady, Kerouac & Ginsberg. Before he signed it for me, he flipped to a picture of his dad in his prime and said, "Look at my dad. Look what a handsome devil he was!" Then he flipped to his mother's 1946 picture, a stunning profile of a classic blonde, and commented boyishly, "Look at how beautiful my mom was!" John was supposed to be shuffled off to speak on the closing panel, and the event organizers were getting impatient, so I took a picture of John signing my book, we shook hands and I left, treasuring the moment.

Seriously, John had the experience of learning the guitar from Jerry Garcia (Garcia credited Cassady for the formation of the Grateful Dead), he knew Kerouac and Ginsberg as his father's friends, so how cool is that? In one aside, John said that Garcia told him as a teenager not to use a certain album as a guide to the Grateful Dead's music style, "We were speeding and played the whole thing in triple time!"

Also speaking that evening was George Walker, one of the Merry Pranksters whose nickname was "Hardly Visible." He's a colorful man, wearing bright hippie colors topped by a knit skullcap, and he had some colorful stories about LSD-laced cross-country bus rides and wild trips to Mexico. Mostly the stories had to do with getting high, having fun, and barely escaping the Mexican police!

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Tom Robbins: Still Crazy After All These Years


I had the good fortune to meet Tom Robbins last week. He was the headliner at the 2008 Summer Literary Festival held by the San Miguel Authors' Sala. San Miguel de Allende, Mexico is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It reminds me of the French Quarter (actually, vice-versa) and like the Quarter, the muse is there. On my first visit in June I wrote feverishly. The place just has that inspirational feel. It's the balconies, the mountains, the happy children.

I was anxious to hear Tom R. speak and he didn't disappoint. In his keynote address he announced that he would not only speak about language being not the frosting, but the cake, but also he would reveal the secret of the universe!

And he did. (Email me for enlightenment).

There was a full buffet dinner served afterward and I was lucky enough to have my assigned seat right next to him! So I tried to strike up a conversation:

RS: Hey Tom, I read somewhere online that you wished you would have started writing novels later; that maybe you could have done better if you'd waited until you had a little more seasoning.

TR: I don't think I ever said that. In fact, I sort of think I started late. But there's all kinds of stuff on the Internet about me that's not true.

RS: But you do like the expressionistic painter Jackson Pollock, don't you?
TR: Well, yes. Very much so. I went to live in New York City for a year to research his life and write a book about him. But I never wrote the book. It was a good excuse to live in New York.

RS: Did you see that movie they made about his life? It was pretty good, I thought.
TR: Yes, it was good. I thought they captured him well. But the thing they didn't do was to say why his work was important.

RS: I dunno. That's Hollywood. Maybe they didn't want to get that deep into it.

RS: You know Richard Ford told a story in New Orleans that one interviewer said it was always such a disappointment to meet authors--they never spoke like they wrote.
TS: Yeah, people expect me to talk like I write.
RS: You never know what someone is going to be like, in person.
TS: Yeah, I used to go to parties in New York with Eugene O'Neill and people thought he was my retarded older brother. He could barely speak a complete sentence.
RS: That's incredible. What a playwright.

RS: You do like cigars, don't you?
TR: Yes.

RS: What kind is your favorite?
TR: Well, Cubans, of course.

RS: Yeah, but what kind of Cubans?
TR: Vegas Robaina.
RS: I like Montecristo. Montecristo #2. You know them?
TR: Yes.
RS: They're the torpedo-shaped ones.
TR: I know.

RS: They're only $40 a box in Cuba. I got some when I went last March.
TS: You have to be careful--they'll sell you counterfeits.
RS: But you can tell by making sure they are rolled uniformly, and checking out that the box matches the ring.
TS: OK.

RS: Cubans are $200 a box in Mexico. And, of course, you're not supposed to even have them in the U.S.
TR: I just drive to Canada. Put a couple of boxes of Nicaraguans on the seat and throw a sweater over them. Then put a box of Cubans under the seat. When I cross the border, they'll ask, "Hey, what's under the sweater?" I show them the cigar boxes and they look at them and let me on through. They never even think to look under the seat.

RS: I just separate them from the box and take the rings off them to bring them in from Mexico. I don't think they have cigar sniffing dogs yet.
TR: And if they did, the dogs wouldn't know the difference between a Cuban and a Nicaraguan.

RS: So, I was laughing about papaya juice in your, "Fierce Invalids" book.
TR: (laughs) Now that part was autobiographical. I was at a Havana hotel and I asked for "jugo papaya." The waiters just laughed their asses off. Papaya means "pussy" there.
RS: Ha, haa! I suppose it does sort of look like one on the inside...
TR: And it's juicy.
Suddenly, there was a thunderbolt outside and it began pouring rain. Both Tom and I looked out the open doors for a minute. He was mesmerized--and electrified.

RS: It's great to write when it's raining, isn't it?
TR: Yes, I love it.
RS: That's why I like New Orleans. It pours. It just really pours when it rains.
TR: That's why I like Seattle. It reduces the temptation to do anything else but write.

The lights went out and we were thrust into blackness, with only the flicker of candles wavering over the tables. It seemed we'd be eating in near darkness. Then the lights came back on, while the storm raged. Someone closed the doors, so we couldn't see the lightning and rain anymore.

TR: I don't know why they closed the doors.

He seemed a little distraught.

After several minutes, someone opened the doors and Tom craned his neck to see outside. But it seemed like he couldn't get enough, like the moment had passed.

TR: Excuse me, but I've got a long day tomorrow. I think I'll head out.
RS: See ya manana.